|NYEDFS and GAFilk, Part the Second
||[Jan. 7th, 2016|07:25 pm]
We had spent Sunday evening doing some basic planning for the stay and resting after the Social revelries. Monday morning we woke up reasonably early, at half eight. After I had turned in our laundry at Suds dem Duds we went in search of breakfast. After some walking, we found the Camellia Grill, which turned out to be a great place, and where we had our breakfasts for the rest of the stay here.
We strolled over to Jackson Square where we joined one of the mule-drawn guided tours. Our guide Mike turned out to be a great guy, though he noted we'd be hard to impress (given that the village where we live turned 700 yesars this year, not 300 in two years like New Orleans. On the other hand, New Orleans has managed to cram in a lot more history during that time than Bankeryd has).
So we got to see the Saint Louis Cemetary No. 1 with the tombs of Marie Laveau and Homer Plessy (of Plessy v Ferguson), and get a crash introduction to the history and culture of the French Quarter.
Therese felt a bit under the weather after the tour, so we went back to our hotel room where she slept a bit while I wrote on my trip report, fetched our clean, dry, and folded laundry, and strolled a little more in the French Quarter. Then we went out and had a nice dinner, though my Sazerac with the dessert turned out to be far too watery and diluted. Then we continued on to Frenchmen street, where we visited the artist's alley and Therese picked up photographs, a necklace, and some weird postcards. We found a nice bar where I had a good Sazerac and listened to some good jazz, and then a dive bar where we listened to some good jazz and I had a poor gin and tonic. Then return to our hotel at a reasonably early hour.
Tuesday started out as museum day. We visited the Presbytère and the Cabildo of the Louisiana State Museum. The Presbytèrere exhibits on Katrina and other hurricanes, and on the Mardi Gras, were both great, though the former was a bit episodic to my taste. The Cabildo exhibit on Louisiana history was not as interesting, but still worth a visit. Again, I felt the history and the events were presented too episodically.
Therese wanted to get proper beignets after this, but I didn't like the Café du Monde—too crowded and a sour smell. So we went walking all over the French Quarter in search of the elusive pastry, during which we managed to find the post office and send our postcards, and Therese felt reasonably good vibes from the Marie Laveau store and bought some stuff there. In the end, we declared defeat due to hunger and sat down at a nice restaurant. I tried their sample lunch of four classic Louisiana dishes, which was very nice. It included cajun gumbo, red beans and rice, jambalaya, and crawfish étouffée. Very hot, in all senses of the word.
Once again, Therese retreated to the hotel room for a rest, while I took a walk in Louis Armstrong park, which was nice but rather abandoned. Afterwards, we packed Therese's stuff and then she decided that she really wanted beignets, so we headed to the Jazz Legends Park, where Cafe Beignet had an outlet. We had beignets, and they were good. They also included the greatest amount of powdered sugar I've ever seen on a dish.
Then back to Frenchmen street, which we walked in the opposite direction this time (lakeside towards riverside). We started out at the known good place, where I had a poor gin and tonic (but better than at the last place) and some jazz. The singer of the band looked like the younger sister of our friend Nanna, to Therese's bemusement. Then on to another bar, where I safed out with an Abita Amber. We ended with another reasonably early night.
Wednesday was Therese's last day in New Orleans. After breakfast we hit the Pharmacy Museum first thing, where Therese could geek out for more than two hours on medicine history, and left me wondering how people of old managed to survive. Doctors were arguably more dangerous than generals (case in point: General Benjamin Butler as the military governor of New Orleans, not that Butler appeared to have been a very effective general militarily speaking).
Afterwards, we managed to locate the small Dr Seuss exhibition, had another snack at Café Beignet, and it was time for Therese to leave New Orleans. Myself, I puttered around a bit, but then went to see the parade of Krewe Jeanne d'Arc, and then checking out more of Bourbon street. I also walked part the Preservation Hall, but I'm not that much for queueing to get into places. At the parade I was plied with Jack Daniels, received a handful of trinkets, got some crappy and some not-so-crappy photos, and hugged two beautiful girls. On Bourbon street I had a girl crawling over me trying to get me to "share" a jello shot, got invited to five strip clubs and one drag queen club (the last was by far the nicest invitation), acquired a set of beads in the proper Mard Gras colours, listened to some jazz, and got back nearly sober.
Next part: bus from New Orleans to Atlanta, and GAFilk!